Make no mistake, there’s a lot involved in getting a mortgage loan. You wouldn’t be here on our website if you could fill out a one-page application and get the best loan for you funded the same day. Don’t worry, we do most of the heavy lifting for you, so you can concentrate on what’s important — preparing to move into your new home and save money!

There are five main steps involved in getting a loan. You’ll see that we’ve made your part in them as easy as possible, and we do all the work! That’s what we’re here for.

You’ve answered a few questions, given us some detailed information, applied online, and next thing you know, you’re moving in! We’re in the business of mortgage loans — so we do most of the work. Doesn’t that make sense?

Before you begin to shop for a new home, you should set up a time to meet with me so we can figure out how much you can afford. This will put you in a better position as a buyer. That’s when it is important to understand the distinction between being pre-qualified for a loan and pre-approved for a loan. The difference between the two terms will be crucial when you decide to make an offer on a house. 

To get pre-qualified for a loan, I will collect information about your debt, income, and assets. We’ll look at your credit profile and assess goals for a down payment and get an idea of different loan programs that would work for you. I will issue you a pre-qualification letter indicating the amount you are pre-qualified to borrow.
It is important to understand that a pre-qualification letter is just an estimate of what you are eligible to borrow, not a commitment to lend. Getting pre-approved for a loan gives you competitive advantage when the time comes to bid on a home because you have been approved for a loan for a specified amount.
To get pre-approved, you will complete a mortgage application and provide me with various information verifying your employment, assets and financial status such as W-2 forms, bank records and credit card statements. We’ll review your mortgage options and submit your application to the lender that best meets your needs. Once the application process is complete you will receive a pre-approval letter indicating the amount your lender is willing to lend you for your home.
A pre-approval letter is not binding on the lender; it is subject to an appraisal of the home you wish to purchase and certain other conditions. If your financial situation changes (e.g. you lose your job), interest rates rise or a specified expiration date passes, your lender must review your situation and recalculate your mortgage amount accordingly.

A rate lock or a rate commitment is a lender’s promise to hold a certain interest rate and a certain number of points for you for a specified period of time while your application is processed. This prevents you from going through your whole application process and at the end of it finding out the interest rate has gone up.

A rate lock period can vary in length, and longer ones usually cost more. A lender will agree to “hold” your interest rate and points for a longer period, say 60 days, but in exchange the rate and maybe points are higher than with a shorter rate lock period, for example.

There are many ways besides opting for a shorter rate lock period to get a lower rate, though. A larger down payment will result in a lower interest rate than a smaller one, because you’re starting out with more equity. You can pay points to lower your rate over the life of the loan, but that means you pay more up front. For many people, this makes sense and is a good deal.

Closing costs are fees paid by the lender, which the lender in turn charges you to close the loan. Many people pay closing costs when they sign on the dotted line, but a person can also finance their closing costs. Paying closing costs when the loan closes will reduce your interest rate.

Finally, the interest rate a lender is willing to offer you depends on your credit score and your debt-to-income ratio. If you have good credit and your income far exceeds your debt obligations, you will qualify for a lower rate.

Many new homebuyers make the mistake of rushing out to buy things to fill their home with as soon as the seller accepts their purchase offer and the lender pre-approves their loan. But there are still a few major hurdles to overcome before the keys are handed out. Here are some things to avoid during the home buying process to assure your transaction goes as smoothly as possible:

 TIPS FOR A SMOOTH LOAN APPROVAL 

Here is a list of helpful tips to ensure an effortless loan process.

These DO’s and DON’Ts will help avoid any delays with your loan approval. 

• DO        continue makeing your mortgage or rent payments
• DO        stay current on ALL existing accounts
• DO        keep working at your current employer
• DO        keep your same insurance company (refinance transactions only)
• DO        continue living at your current residence (if you move let us know)
• DO        continue using your credit as normal
• DO        call us if you have any questions (972-422-9016)

-    DON’T        make a major purchase (ex. car, boat, furniture, jewelry, etc)

-    DON’T        apply for new credit (even if you seem “pre-approved)

-    DON’T        open a new credit card

-    DON’T        transfer any balances from one account to another

-    DON’T        pay off any charge offs or collections without discussion with us first

-    DON’T        buy any furniture on credit (we know this is already listed but it’s important!)

-    DON’T        close any credit card accounts

-    DON’T        change bank accounts

-    DON’T        make any strange or large deposits in your accounts (EVEN GIFT FUNDS – call first)

-    DON’T        start any home improvement projects

-    DON’T        finance any electve medical procedures

-    DON’T        pay off any loans or credit cards without discussion with us first

A critical step in the mortgage loan application process is to verify the sources for your down payment, closing costs and assets, as well as documenting income and debts. The lender uses this step to determine your qualifications as a borrower. 

Down Payment & Closing Costs

Documenting that the down payment comes from your savings and that you will have savings and/or assets over and above the down payment gives the lender confidence in your strength as a borrower and your ability to repay the loan.

Take extra care to document the sources for any monies to be used for the down payment or closing costs.

Acceptable Down Payment & Closing Costs Sources

• Cash in a bank account
• Mutual funds / stocks / IRA / 401(K)
• Proceeds from the sale of another property
• Gift from an immediate relative
   

Assets

Collect information about your personal assets that add to your net worth and help to prove your credit worthiness.

 Common Assets Considered in a Mortgage Loan Application

• Stocks, bonds, mutual funds, 401(K) and retirement accounts
• Life insurance
• Personal property estimate – cars, boats, antiques, jewelry, etc.
• Other real estate or property

Income and Employment

The lender will want to confirm your current gross income and have evidence of stable employment. Documentation requirements vary depending upon a number of factors – including the source of income (hourly, salary, salary + bonuses, salary + commission, commission, self-employed, etc.).

Debts

Your lender will want to review a list of all your current debts. This along with your credit report will provide the lender with a snapshot of your obligations. The lender will want to confirm that you will not be overextended when the mortgage payment is added to your current debt load.

Your debt to income ratio is simply a way of determining how much money is available for your monthly mortgage payment after all your other recurring debt obligations are met.

Debt limit (Not necessarily a hard and fast rule)

There is generally a debt limit associated with each type of loan, such as a 28/36 qualifying ratio for a conventional loan. These qualifying ratios are guidelines. An excellent credit history can help you qualify for a mortgage loan even if your debt load is over and above the limit.

Understanding the qualifying ratio

Typically conventional loans have a qualifying ratio of 30/40. Usually an FHA loan will allow for a higher debt load, reflected in a higher (35/43) qualifying ratio.

The first number in a qualifying ratio is the maximum percentage of your gross monthly income that can be applied to housing (including loan principal and interest, private mortgage insurance, hazard insurance, property taxes and homeowner’s association dues).

The second number is the maximum percentage of your gross monthly income that can be applied to housing expenses and recurring debt. Recurring debt includes things like car loans, child support and monthly credit card payments.

For example: 

With a 30/40 qualifying ratio:

• Gross monthly income of $3,500 x .30 = $1,050 can be applied to housing, which includes: (PITI) principle and interest, taxes, all insurance, and HOA if required.          
• Gross monthly income of $3,500 x .40 = $1,400 can be applied to recurring debt plus housing expenses. (That $1,400 must support all recurring debt not including household expenses, such as cable, telephone, and utilities)

With a 35/43 qualifying ratio:

• Gross monthly income of $3,500 x .35 = $1,225 can be applied to housing, which includes: (PITI) principle and interest, taxes, all insurance, and HOA if required.
• Gross monthly income of $3,500 x .45 = $1,575 can be applied to recurring debt plus housing expenses. (That $1,575 must support all recurring debt not including household expenses, such as cable, telephone, and utilities)

Remember these are simply guidelines (There are exceptions to most rules)

Remember these are just guidelines. We’d be happy to pre-qualify you to determine how large a mortgage loan you can afford.  We look forward to helping you buy your dream home.

In today’s increasingly automated society, it should come as no surprise that when you apply for a mortgage, your ability to pay can be reduced to a single number. All the years you’ve been paying your mortgage, car payments, and credit card bills can be analyzed, sliced, diced, spindled and mutilated into a single indicator of whether you’re likely to meet your future obligations.

All three of the major credit reporting agencies (Equifax, Experian and TransUnion) use a slightly different system to arrive at a score. The best known is called the FICO score, based on a model developed by Fair Isaac and Company (hence the name) and used by Experian. Equifax’s model is called BEACON, while TransUnion uses EMPIRICA. While each of the models considers a range of data available in your credit report, the primary factors are:

Each of these, and other items, are assigned a value and a weight. The results are added up and distilled into a single number. FICO scores range from 300 to 850, with higher being better. Typical home buyers likely find their scores falling between 600 and 850.

FICO scores are used for more than just determining whether or not you qualify for a mortgage. Higher scores indicate you are a better credit risk, and thus may qualify for a better mortgage rate.

What can you do about your FICO score? Unfortunately, not much. Since the score is based on a lifetime of credit history, it is difficult to make a significant change in the number with quick fixes. The most important thing is to know your FICO score and to ensure that your credit history is correct. Conveniently, Fair Isaac has created a web site (www.myFICO.com) that let’s you do just that. For a reasonable fee, you can quickly get your FICO score from all three reporting agencies, along with your credit report. Also available is some helpful information and tools that help you analyze what actions might have the greatest impact on your FICO score. Each of the credit services offers similar services on their web sites: www.equifax.com, www.experian.com, and www.transunion.com.

Armed with this information, you will be a more informed consumer and better positioned to obtain the most favorable mortgage available to you.

Before deciding on what terms lenders will offer you on a loan (which they base on the “risk” to them), they want to know two things about you: your ability to pay back the loan, and your willingness to pay back the loan. For the first, they look at your income-to-debt obligation ratio. For your willingness to pay back the loan, they consult your credit score.

The most widely used credit scores are FICO scores, which were developed by Fair Isaac & Company, Inc. (and they’re named after their inventor!). Your FICO score is between 350 (high risk) and 850 (low risk).

Credit scores only consider the information contained in your credit profile. They do not consider your income, savings, down payment amount, or demographic factors like gender, race, nationality or marital status. In fact, the fact they don’t consider demographic factors is why they were invented in the first place. “Profiling” was as dirty a word when FICO scores were invented as it is now. Credit scoring was developed as a way to consider only what was relevant to somebody’s willingness to repay a loan.

Past delinquencies, derogatory payment behavior, current debt level, length of credit history, types of credit and number of inquiries are all considered in credit scores. Your score considers both positive and negative information in your credit report. Late payments will lower your score, but establishing or reestablishing a good track record of making payments on time will raise your score.

Different portions of your credit history are given different weights. Thirty-five percent of your FICO score is based on your specific payment history. Thirty percent is your current level of indebtedness. Fifteen percent each is the time your open credit has been in use (ten year old accounts are good, six month old ones aren’t as good) and types of credit available to you (installment loans such as student loans, car loans, etc. versus revolving and debit accounts like credit cards). Finally, five percent is pursuit of new credit — credit scores requested.

Your credit report must contain at least one account which has been open for six months or more, and at least one account that has been updated in the past six months for you to get a credit score. This ensures that there is enough information in your report to generate an accurate score. If you do not meet the minimum criteria for getting a score, you may need to establish a credit history prior to applying for a mortgage.

Loan Origination Fee
This covers the administrative expenses in setting-up and processing the loan. The loan origination fee may be a percentage of the mortgage amount.

Points (optional)
An option for the home buyer is to pay points to lower the interest rate at which the loan will be repaid. Each point equals 1 percent of the mortgage amount. For example: on a $150,000 loan, 1 point would equal $1,500.

Appraisal Fee
The fee for having the house appraised may be incorporated into the closing costs or payment may be required by the lender at the time the loan application is submitted.

Credit Report
The lender uses a credit report to determine the creditworthiness of the loan applicant. This fee is often paid when the loan application is submitted.

Interest Payment
Typically the buyer is required to pay interest on the mortgage loan to cover the time between the closing date and when the first mortgage payment period begins. For example: If closing is on May 15. Your first monthly payment begins to accrue interest on June 1 with your first mortgage payment due July 1. At closing an interest payment covering the accrual period between May 15 and May 31 may be required.

Escrow Account
At closing a payment may be required to fund the escrow account if the lender is paying home insurance, property taxes and/or other expenses out of the escrow account.