Your debt to income ratio is simply a way of determining how much money is available for your monthly mortgage payment after all your other recurring debt obligations are met.

Debt limit (Not necessarily a hard and fast rule)

There is generally a debt limit associated with each type of loan, such as a 28/36 qualifying ratio for a conventional loan. These qualifying ratios are guidelines. An excellent credit history can help you qualify for a mortgage loan even if your debt load is over and above the limit.

Understanding the qualifying ratio

Typically conventional loans have a qualifying ratio of 30/40. Usually an FHA loan will allow for a higher debt load, reflected in a higher (35/43) qualifying ratio.

The first number in a qualifying ratio is the maximum percentage of your gross monthly income that can be applied to housing (including loan principal and interest, private mortgage insurance, hazard insurance, property taxes and homeowner’s association dues).

The second number is the maximum percentage of your gross monthly income that can be applied to housing expenses and recurring debt. Recurring debt includes things like car loans, child support and monthly credit card payments.

For example: 

With a 30/40 qualifying ratio:

• Gross monthly income of $3,500 x .30 = $1,050 can be applied to housing, which includes: (PITI) principle and interest, taxes, all insurance, and HOA if required.          
• Gross monthly income of $3,500 x .40 = $1,400 can be applied to recurring debt plus housing expenses. (That $1,400 must support all recurring debt not including household expenses, such as cable, telephone, and utilities)

With a 35/43 qualifying ratio:

• Gross monthly income of $3,500 x .35 = $1,225 can be applied to housing, which includes: (PITI) principle and interest, taxes, all insurance, and HOA if required.
• Gross monthly income of $3,500 x .45 = $1,575 can be applied to recurring debt plus housing expenses. (That $1,575 must support all recurring debt not including household expenses, such as cable, telephone, and utilities)

Remember these are simply guidelines (There are exceptions to most rules)

Remember these are just guidelines. We’d be happy to pre-qualify you to determine how large a mortgage loan you can afford.  We look forward to helping you buy your dream home.

In today’s increasingly automated society, it should come as no surprise that when you apply for a mortgage, your ability to pay can be reduced to a single number. All the years you’ve been paying your mortgage, car payments, and credit card bills can be analyzed, sliced, diced, spindled and mutilated into a single indicator of whether you’re likely to meet your future obligations.

All three of the major credit reporting agencies (Equifax, Experian and TransUnion) use a slightly different system to arrive at a score. The best known is called the FICO score, based on a model developed by Fair Isaac and Company (hence the name) and used by Experian. Equifax’s model is called BEACON, while TransUnion uses EMPIRICA. While each of the models considers a range of data available in your credit report, the primary factors are:

Each of these, and other items, are assigned a value and a weight. The results are added up and distilled into a single number. FICO scores range from 300 to 850, with higher being better. Typical home buyers likely find their scores falling between 600 and 850.

FICO scores are used for more than just determining whether or not you qualify for a mortgage. Higher scores indicate you are a better credit risk, and thus may qualify for a better mortgage rate.

What can you do about your FICO score? Unfortunately, not much. Since the score is based on a lifetime of credit history, it is difficult to make a significant change in the number with quick fixes. The most important thing is to know your FICO score and to ensure that your credit history is correct. Conveniently, Fair Isaac has created a web site (www.myFICO.com) that let’s you do just that. For a reasonable fee, you can quickly get your FICO score from all three reporting agencies, along with your credit report. Also available is some helpful information and tools that help you analyze what actions might have the greatest impact on your FICO score. Each of the credit services offers similar services on their web sites: www.equifax.com, www.experian.com, and www.transunion.com.

Armed with this information, you will be a more informed consumer and better positioned to obtain the most favorable mortgage available to you.

Before deciding on what terms lenders will offer you on a loan (which they base on the “risk” to them), they want to know two things about you: your ability to pay back the loan, and your willingness to pay back the loan. For the first, they look at your income-to-debt obligation ratio. For your willingness to pay back the loan, they consult your credit score.

The most widely used credit scores are FICO scores, which were developed by Fair Isaac & Company, Inc. (and they’re named after their inventor!). Your FICO score is between 350 (high risk) and 850 (low risk).

Credit scores only consider the information contained in your credit profile. They do not consider your income, savings, down payment amount, or demographic factors like gender, race, nationality or marital status. In fact, the fact they don’t consider demographic factors is why they were invented in the first place. “Profiling” was as dirty a word when FICO scores were invented as it is now. Credit scoring was developed as a way to consider only what was relevant to somebody’s willingness to repay a loan.

Past delinquencies, derogatory payment behavior, current debt level, length of credit history, types of credit and number of inquiries are all considered in credit scores. Your score considers both positive and negative information in your credit report. Late payments will lower your score, but establishing or reestablishing a good track record of making payments on time will raise your score.

Different portions of your credit history are given different weights. Thirty-five percent of your FICO score is based on your specific payment history. Thirty percent is your current level of indebtedness. Fifteen percent each is the time your open credit has been in use (ten year old accounts are good, six month old ones aren’t as good) and types of credit available to you (installment loans such as student loans, car loans, etc. versus revolving and debit accounts like credit cards). Finally, five percent is pursuit of new credit — credit scores requested.

Your credit report must contain at least one account which has been open for six months or more, and at least one account that has been updated in the past six months for you to get a credit score. This ensures that there is enough information in your report to generate an accurate score. If you do not meet the minimum criteria for getting a score, you may need to establish a credit history prior to applying for a mortgage.

• The individual has applied for credit under several different names (i.e. John Doe and Jonathon Doe)
• Someone made a clerical error in entering or reading information (names, social security numbers, addresses, etc.) from a handwritten application.
• Mix ups with common names. For example, there is likely more than one John Smith living in New York City and often there is the chance that information intended for one John Smith might appear on another John Smith’s credit report as he applies for a mortgage.
• The individual gave an inaccurate Social Security number or the number was misread by the creditor.
• Loan or credit card payments were inadvertently applied to the wrong account.

No matter what the reason, the erroneous information could reflect poorly on your credit file, thus causing approval problems when the time comes to apply for a job or obtain a mortgage. If you find errors, no matter how small, be sure you get them fixed, and make sure that you contact all three credit bureaus with your change.

It’s virtually impossible to change your score in the time between when most people decide to buy a home or refinance their mortgage and when they apply. So the short answer is, you really can’t “on the spot.” But there are strategies you can live with to make sure when you apply for a loan your score is as high as possible.

Make sure that the information each of the three credit reporting bureaus has on you is consistent and up to date. Order a copy of your credit report about once a year, and dispute any inaccuracies.

Note: Theoretically, if a series of credit reports is requested on your behalf during a limited amount of time, your score goes down until time passes without any inquiries. Changes in the law though have made “consumer-originating” credit report requests not count so much. Also, a series of requests in relation to getting a mortgage or car loan is not treated the same as a number of credit card requests in a limited time. This is because the credit bureaus, and lenders, realize that people request their own credit reports to keep up with what’s on them, and smart consumers shop around for the best mortgage and car loans.

Unsolicited credit card solicitations in the mail don’t count against your credit report, so don’t worry.

The two main components of your credit score are your payment history and the amounts you owe. Bankruptcy filings and foreclosures, which can stay on your credit report for as long as 10 years, can significantly lower your score. It’s never a good idea to take on more credit than you can handle.

Late payments work against you. It’s extremely important to pay bills on time, even if it’s only the monthly payment.

Don’t “max out” your credit lines. Since the size of the balance on your open accounts is a factor, lower balances are better.

It’s said that by carefully managing your credit, it’s possible to add as much as 50 points per year to your score.

I have been forecasting for quite some time that Fair Isaac would eliminate the loophole that allows people to quickly increase their credit score by being added as an authorized user on someone else’s established credit card.

Marketers Make Loophole Too Prominent to Ignore

For the most part, this loophole has stayed under the radar until recently when a few companies came out of the woodwork with a marketable service that catered to consumers who will benefit from this practice. These companies recruit people from all over the country who have older credit cards with low debt ratios and offer them $100-$300 for each person they add to their credit card as an authorized user. Then, they market to consumers with limited credit histories and/or high revolving debt ratios and offer to have them added as an authorized user on a seasoned trade line for around $1500 per credit card and pocket the difference. As this practice became more popular, it wasn’t long before the over exposure of this loophole shed light on the flaws of Fair Isaac’s software.

New Software Will Eliminate the Loophole

Under pressure from lenders, Fair Isaac made the decision to invest the money into correcting this loophole. The correction is fairly simple: When Fair Isaac takes that snapshot of somebody’s credit file, they are going to look at one extra field that they previously had not looked at when generating the score. That field is the one that says who is responsible for that account.

If the scoring software sees that the person is the primary on the account, then it will score the report just like it had done before and no change to the credit score will take place between the old and the new scoring model. This will also hold true if it says that the account is a joint account. But if they see that the responsibility on that account is as an authorized user designation, they will completely ignore that entire account when calculating the credit score. It doesn’t matter if the authorized user was added five years ago or yesterday; they will instantly lose the benefits created, if any, from that account being shown on their credit report.

Advising Clients Going Forward

Due to the fact that the scoring model is changing in a few months coupled with the fact that lenders are denying applications in some instances if an authorized user account is present, I would advise that people refrain from getting added as an authorized user immediately since the benefit will soon be gone and taking advantage of that benefit before it leaves may leave a person with no loan at all due to rejection from the lender.

Written by Edward Jamison Esq.
Creator of www.CreditCRM.com

 The Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA), enforced by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), is designed to promote accuracy and ensure the privacy of the information used in consumer reports. Under the FCRA, both the credit reporting agency (CRA) and the organization that provided the information to the CRA (usually the credit card company) must correct any errors or incomplete information in your report.

 If you do encounter a mistake on your credit report, several steps need to be taken to correct the matter:

 1. The first thing to do is get a copy of your credit report from each of the three major CRAs: Equifax, http://www.equifax.com; Experian, http://www.experian.com; and TransUnion, http://www.tuc.com.

 2 In a written letter, tell the CRA what information you believe to be inaccurate. Include copies (not originals) of documents that support your position. Provide your complete name and address, identify each item in your report you dispute, and request deletion or correction. Be sure to make copies of your dispute letter and enclosures.

 3. Send your letter by certified mail, return receipt requested, so you can document what the CRA received.

 4. The FCRA mandates that all CRAs reinvestigate the items in question — usually within 30 days — unless they consider your dispute frivolous. They also must forward all relevant data you provide about the dispute to the credit card company. After the credit card company receives notice of a dispute from the CRA, it must investigate, review all relevant information and report the results to the CRA.

 5. If the disputed information is found to be inaccurate, the credit card company must notify all nationwide CRAs so they can correct this information in your file. Disputed information that cannot be verified must be deleted from your file.

 6. When the reinvestigation is complete, the CRA must give you the written results and a free copy of your report if the dispute results in a change. If an item is changed or removed, the CRA cannot put the disputed information back in your file unless the credit card company verifies its accuracy and completeness, and the CRA gives you a written notice that includes the name, address, and phone number of the credit card company.

 7. In addition to the CRA, you should also write to the credit card company about the error. Again, include copies of documents that support your dispute. If you are correct — meaning the information you disputed is found inaccurate — the credit card company cannot use it again. Further, at your request, the CRA must send notices of corrections to anyone who received your report in the past six months.